Graymelin Astaxanthin Stemcell Serum Versus Biossance Squalane + Marine Algae Eye Cream

Graymelin Astaxanthin Stemcell Serum Versus Biossance Squalane + Marine Algae Eye Cream

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Astaxanthin and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Betaine

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Astaxanthin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Allantoin

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium Polyacrylate

Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract

Glycerin

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Lecithin

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Squalane

Phytosterols

Propanediol

Ceramide NP

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Xanthan Gum

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Aspalathus Linearis Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Commiphora Abyssinica Resin Extract

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract

Yucca Schidigera Root Extract

Water, Butylene Glycol, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Betaine, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Astaxanthin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Polyacrylate, Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Lecithin, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Squalane, Phytosterols, Propanediol, Ceramide NP, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Commiphora Abyssinica Resin Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Yucca Schidigera Root Extract

Sorbitan Olivate

Cetearyl Olivate

Jojoba Esters

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Panthenol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Cetyl Palmitate

Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Sorbitan Palmitate

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Tocopherol

Citric Acid

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Glycerin, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Jojoba Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetyl Palmitate, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sorbitan Palmitate, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Astaxanthin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Citric Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Astaxanthin is a carotene pigment and red pigment. It is a promising antioxidant with a ton of skin benefits.

This antioxidant has great anti-aging benefits by blocking the following:

Astaxanthin is also great at soothing skin due to its ability to block molecules that signal inflammation. It is currently being studied for preventing chronic inflammatory diseases.

Plus, a study from 2012 found Astaxanthin in liposomes protected mouse skin from UV-damage.

Fun fact: Astaxanthin is responsible for giving salmon a pink color.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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