Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Serum Rapid Brightening Treatment with Ferment² + Vitamin C Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II

Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Serum Rapid Brightening Treatment with Ferment² + Vitamin C Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Acetyl Glucosamine to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Glycereth-26

Isononyl Isononanoate

Dimethicone

Propanediol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Algae Extract

Sucrose

Acetyl Glucosamine

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Molasses Extract

Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract

Salicylic Acid

Hydrolyzed Prunus Domestica

Caffeine

Sodium Lactate

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Squalane

Oryzanol

Resveratrol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium PCA

Ethylhexylglycerin

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Tocopheryl Acetate

PEG-75

Oleth-3 Phosphate

Sorbitol

Caprylyl Glycol

Oleth-3

Sodium Polyaspartate

Oleth-5

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Propylene Glycol Caprylate

Dextrin

Faex Extract

Choleth-24

Carbomer

Sodium Hydroxide

Ceteth-24

Xanthan Gum

Parfum

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Disodium EDTA

BHT

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Algae Extract, Sucrose, Acetyl Glucosamine, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Molasses Extract, Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Prunus Domestica, Caffeine, Sodium Lactate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Squalane, Oryzanol, Resveratrol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG-75, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Sorbitol, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-3, Sodium Polyaspartate, Oleth-5, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol Caprylate, Dextrin, Faex Extract, Choleth-24, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Ceteth-24, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Methyl Gluceth-20

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Algin

Pantethine

Lecithin

Tripeptide-32

Sodium Rna

Bisabolol

Lactobacillus Ferment

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Hexylene Glycol

Triethanolamine

Trisodium EDTA

CI 14700

CI 19140

Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Methyl Gluceth-20, PEG-75, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Tripeptide-32, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Glycereth-26, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Faex Extract, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Hexylene Glycol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Trisodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.

As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.

The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.

However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.

Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane belongs to the siloxanes and silicones classes. It is synthetically created and has a waxy composition.

This ingredient is a humectant and emollient, meaning it helps hydrate the skin. Humectants draw moisture to your skin, while emollients prevent moisture from escaping.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

We don't have a description for Ceteth-24 yet.

Choleth-24 comes from the cholesterol of lanolins. It is used as an emulsifier, or to help stabilize other ingredients.

This ingredient is soluble in both water and alcohol.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

We don't have a description for Faex Extract yet.

Glycereth-26 is a synthetic ingredient and polyethylene glycol ether of Glycerin. Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin and helps keep your skin moisturized.

It is a humectant and helps add texture to products. It can make your product thicker.

As a humectant, it helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps your skin stay hydrated.

Oleth-3 comes from oleyl alcohol. It is an emulsifier that helps reduce surface tension of dirt and pollutants to be washed away.

The 3 stands for the average number of ethylene oxide units.

Oleth-3 Phosphate is created from phosphoric acid and Oleth-3.

It is used as an emulsifier to prevent ingredients from separating.

Oleth-5 comes from oleyl alcohol. It is an emulsifier that helps reduce surface tension of dirt and pollutants to be washed away.

The 5 stands for the average number of ethylene oxide units.

This ingredient is also known as Macrogol 4000. It is a polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of about 3,000 - 4,000 and functions as a humectant and solvent.

Solvents help dissolve and evenly distribute other ingredients within a formula.

Due to its high molecular weight, PEG-75 has limited skin penetration and remains mostly on the surface.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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