Educational guide
Estée Lauder NightWear Plus Moisturizer Anti-Oxidant Night Detox Creme Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrated Recovery Eye Mask
Estée Lauder NightWear Plus Moisturizer Anti-Oxidant Night Detox Creme Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrated Recovery Eye Mask This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chlori
This guide cannot diagnose a condition or recommend a personal treatment plan. Discuss medical questions with a qualified professional.
Estée Lauder NightWear Plus Moisturizer Anti-Oxidant Night Detox Creme Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrated Recovery Eye Mask
This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye mask is formulated around Silybum Marianum Extract and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Polysorbate 60
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Propanediol
Squalane
Sorbitan Stearate
Cetyl Palmitate
Tridecyl Stearate
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Gentiana Lutea Root Extract
Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract
Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract
Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract
Hydrolyzed Rice Extract
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Thermus Thermophillus Ferment
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Limonium Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride
Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer
Artemia Extract
Cholesterol
Algae Extract
Linoleic Acid
Dimethiconol
Isohexadecane
Sodium Hyaluronate
Lecithin
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Lauryl Alcohol
Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Trehalose
Sucrose
Ergothioneine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
Acetyl Glucosamine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Butylene Glycol
Glyceryl Stearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Caffeine
Palmitic Acid
Sodium PCA
Stearic Acid
Urea
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Cetyl Alcohol
Myristyl Alcohol
Polyquaternium-51
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Polysorbate 80
Sodium Benzoate
Fumaric Acid
Cyclodextrin
Parfum
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Linalool
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
Benzyl Salicylate
CI 42090
CI 19140
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polysorbate 60, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Propanediol, Squalane, Sorbitan Stearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Stearate, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Limonium Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Artemia Extract, Cholesterol, Algae Extract, Linoleic Acid, Dimethiconol, Isohexadecane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Lauryl Alcohol, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Trehalose, Sucrose, Ergothioneine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caffeine, Palmitic Acid, Sodium PCA, Stearic Acid, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Cetyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Polyquaternium-51, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Benzoate, Fumaric Acid, Cyclodextrin, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Benzyl Salicylate, CI 42090, CI 19140
Methyl Gluceth-20
PEG-75
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Glycereth-26
Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract
Silybum Marianum Extract
Echinacea Purpurea Extract
Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Betula Alba Bark Extract
Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract
Camelina Sativa Seed Oil
Lactobacillus Ferment
Hydrolyzed Algin
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Faex Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
PEG-8 Glyceryl Isostearate
Polysorbate 20
Glycine
Carbomer
Dextrin
Xanthan Gum
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Trisodium EDTA
CI 77491
Water, Methyl Gluceth-20, PEG-75, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycereth-26, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Caffeine, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Artemia Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Algae Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Hydrolyzed Algin, Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Faex Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG-8 Glyceryl Isostearate, Polysorbate 20, Glycine, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dextrin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Lecithin, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Trisodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77491
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Algae Extract is a confusing name. This is because algae is an informal term for a group of 30,000 aquatic organisms that can photosynthesize.
The term 'algae extract' can refer to any one, or a blend of, the 30,000 types.
Algae is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Algae can also help with soothing and hydrating skin.
Many different types of algae have different benefits.
We don't have a description for Artemia Extract yet.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
This ingredient is more commonly known as the coffee bean from the Coffea Arabica tree. Besides being a delicious drink, coffee beans have a ton of skin benefits.
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract (CASE) has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and UV-protective properties. (It should not replace your sunscreen!)
CASE contains several ingredients that protect and soothe skin. These include caffeine, polysaccharides, sucrose, lipids, minerals, and proteins.
The star ingredient in coffee is caffeine.
Caffeine helps with anti-aging, antioxidant, and photo-protection.
How? It has been shown to block collagenase (~41%), elastase (~35%), and tyrosinase (~13%).
Collagenase and elastase are enzymes that break down collagen and elastin, respectively. Tyrosinase is the enzyme that controls melanin production.
Our skin creates melanin when exposed to UV as a defense mechanism.
It should be noted most studies looked at caffeine's ability to inhibit damage from UV-B rays.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is often dissolved using water, glycerin, and propanediol. The caffeine content of this ingredient is about 100 ppm.
Coffea Arabica is native to Ethiopia.
Hydrolyzed rice protein is a plant-derived ingredient with hydrating, antibacterial and anti-aging properties.
This fine, white-ish powder is protein rich. The protein is hydrolyzed into smaller peptides and amino acids.
It has the following skin benefits:
In hair care, this ingredient can help reduce breakage, enhance shine, and reduce frizz.
Read more about the benefits of rice extract here.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!