Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum Versus La Mer Genaissance de la Mer The Serum Essence

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum Versus La Mer Genaissance de la Mer The Serum Essence

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Bifida Ferment Lysate

PEG-8

Propanediol

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Methyl Gluceth-20

Glycereth-26

PEG-75

Butylene Glycol

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract

Tripeptide-32

Sodium Hyaluronate

Faex Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Hydrolyzed Algin

Pantethine

Caffeine

Lecithin

Sodium Rna

Bisabolol

Squalane

Glycerin

Oleth-3 Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Oleth-3

Oleth-5

Choleth-24

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters

Ceteth-24

Tocopheryl Acetate

Carbomer

Triethanolamine

Tetrasodium EDTA

BHT

Xanthan Gum

Potassium Sorbate

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

CI 14700

CI 19140

Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, PEG-8, Propanediol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, PEG-75, Butylene Glycol, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Tripeptide-32, Sodium Hyaluronate, Faex Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Squalane, Glycerin, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tetrasodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140

Algae Extract

Dimethicone

Isododecane

Polysilicone-11

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

Medicago Sativa Seed Powder

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Sodium Gluconate

Copper Gluconate

Calcium Gluconate

Magnesium Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Tocopheryl Succinate

Niacin

Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder

Hypnea Musciformis Extract

Gelidiella Acerosa Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract

Whey Protein

Acetyl Glucosamine

Pisum Sativum Extract

Helichrysum Arenarium Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

Centaurium Erythraea Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Sucrose

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Jania Rubens Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Molasses Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Micrococcus Lysate

Saccharomyces Lysate Extract

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Palmaria Palmata Extract

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Polysorbate 20

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium PCA

Urea

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Glycosaminoglycans

Parfum

Isohexadecane

Pentylene Glycol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tetraacetylphytosphingosine

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Ruby Powder

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hydrolyzed Rice Extract

Tourmaline

Gold

Glucosamine Hcl

Yeast Polysaccharides

Polysorbate 80

Trehalose

Polyquaternium-51

Hexylene Glycol

Cholesterol

Zea Mays Kernel Extract

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Maltodextrin

Alcohol Denat.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Trimethylsiloxysilicate

Chlorphenesin

Hydroxycitronellal

Citronellol

Geraniol

Linalool

Limonene

Caramel

Algae Extract, Dimethicone, Isododecane, Polysilicone-11, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Water, Propanediol, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Whey Protein, Caffeine, Acetyl Glucosamine, Pisum Sativum Extract, Helichrysum Arenarium Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Centaurium Erythraea Extract, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Sucrose, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Jania Rubens Extract, PEG-8, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Molasses Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Micrococcus Lysate, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium PCA, Urea, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycosaminoglycans, Parfum, Isohexadecane, Pentylene Glycol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Squalane, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Ruby Powder, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Tourmaline, Hydrolyzed Algin, Potassium Sorbate, Gold, Glucosamine Hcl, Caprylyl Glycol, Yeast Polysaccharides, Polysorbate 80, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51, Hexylene Glycol, Faex Extract, Cholesterol, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Alcohol Denat., Xanthan Gum, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene, Caramel, CI 14700

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.

As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.

The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.

However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.

Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane belongs to the siloxanes and silicones classes. It is synthetically created and has a waxy composition.

This ingredient is a humectant and emollient, meaning it helps hydrate the skin. Humectants draw moisture to your skin, while emollients prevent moisture from escaping.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ci 14700, also known as Red No. 4, is a synthetic red dye derived from petroleum. It is water soluble.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

We don't have a description for Faex Extract yet.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is made from brown seaweed and is often used to improve the texture of products.

According to a manufacturer, this is a lightweight ingredient and a smaller form of algin. This allows it to be easily mixed with water and improve the spreadability of products.

It also has conditioning properties that mostly sits on the surface of skin as an emollient. Some lab research has explored it in anti-aging formulas, but the results were modest.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

PEG-8 is a synthetic polymer used as a humectant and solvent.

This ingredient is able to help dissolve active ingredients, including water. This gives it humectant properties.

It is soluble in water. The number '8' stands for the molecular weight of the ingredient.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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