Independent education resourceInformation here does not replace care from a qualified health professional.
Peptide Therapy GuideClear peptide education

Educational guide

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate Versus Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte's Magic Serum Crystal Elixir

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate Versus Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte's Magic Serum Crystal Elixir This calming serum is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment and Resveratrol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This ant

Written by Peptide Therapy Guide Editorial Team
For education only

This guide cannot diagnose a condition or recommend a personal treatment plan. Discuss medical questions with a qualified professional.

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate Versus Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte's Magic Serum Crystal Elixir

This calming serum is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment and Resveratrol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Polyglutamic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Glycerin

Methyl Trimethicone

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Butylene Glycol

Isopropyl Isostearate

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Faex Extract

Tripeptide-32

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Algin

Lactobacillus Ferment

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract

Soy Amino Acids

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Resveratrol

Algae Extract

Salicylic Acid

Ergothioneine

Tocopheryl Acetate

Whey Protein

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Caffeine

Sodium PCA

Propylene Glycol Caprylate

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Isohexadecane

Polysilicone-11

Methyldihydrojasmonate

Sodium Lactate

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Isododecane

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Squalane

Polyethylene

Propylene Carbonate

Pentylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA

BHT

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Linalool

CI 14700

CI 19140

Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Methyl Trimethicone, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Isopropyl Isostearate, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Faex Extract, Tripeptide-32, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Algin, Lactobacillus Ferment, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Soy Amino Acids, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Resveratrol, Algae Extract, Salicylic Acid, Ergothioneine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Whey Protein, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Sodium PCA, Propylene Glycol Caprylate, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Isohexadecane, Polysilicone-11, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Sodium Lactate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Isododecane, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Squalane, Polyethylene, Propylene Carbonate, Pentylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Linalool, CI 14700, CI 19140

Niacinamide

Glycereth-26

Triheptanoin

Methyl Gluceth-20

Silica

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil

Quartz Powder

Amethyst Powder

Ruby Powder

Gold

Butyrospermum Parkii Oil

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Polysorbate 20

Glyceryl Stearate

Octyldodecyl Oleate

Benzyl Alcohol

Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract

PEG-100 Stearate

Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate

Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract

Carbomer

Sodium Gluconate

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Saussurea Involucrata Callus Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Polyglutamic Acid

Sorbitol

Magnesium Aspartate

Zinc Gluconate

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Octyldodecanol

Propanediol

Biosaccharide Gum-4

Xanthan Gum

Parfum

Plumeria Alba Flower Extract

Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract

Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract

Lactic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Copper Gluconate

Hydrated Silica

1,2-Hexanediol

Citric Acid

Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Dehydroacetic Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Glutathione

Limonene

Geraniol

Citronellol

Citral

Water, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Triheptanoin, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Silica, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Quartz Powder, Amethyst Powder, Ruby Powder, Gold, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecyl Oleate, Benzyl Alcohol, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract, PEG-100 Stearate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Carbomer, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Saussurea Involucrata Callus Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Polyglutamic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Benzoate, Propanediol, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Plumeria Alba Flower Extract, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Lactic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Copper Gluconate, Hydrated Silica, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Glutathione, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool, Citral

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

Connected reading

Helpful context for this guide

Source-derived material selected through this article’s indexed topics.

P

About the author

Peptide Therapy Guide Editorial Team

Editorial team for Peptide Therapy Guide.

View all articles →