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Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex Versus AHC Beauty Ten Revolution Real Eye Cream For Face

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex Versus AHC Beauty Ten Revolution Real Eye Cream For Face This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Caffeine to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look

Written by Peptide Therapy Guide Editorial Team
For education only

This guide cannot diagnose a condition or recommend a personal treatment plan. Discuss medical questions with a qualified professional.

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex Versus AHC Beauty Ten Revolution Real Eye Cream For Face

This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Caffeine to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Methyl Trimethicone

Water

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Dimethicone

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Propanediol

Sucrose

Petrolatum

Polysorbate 40

Trehalose

Algae Extract

Morus Bombycis Root Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Hydrolyzed Algin

Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract

Jojoba Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Isopropyl Jojobate

Jojoba Esters

Isohexadecane

Faex Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Cholesterol

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Rna

Caffeine

Polysorbate 80

Caprylyl Glycol

Phytosphingosine

Squalane

Potassium Sulfate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tripeptide-32

Butylene Glycol

Tromethamine

Disodium EDTA

BHT

Phenoxyethanol

CI 77491

CI 77492

CI 77499

Methyl Trimethicone, Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Sucrose, Petrolatum, Polysorbate 40, Trehalose, Algae Extract, Morus Bombycis Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Jojoba Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Isopropyl Jojobate, Jojoba Esters, Isohexadecane, Faex Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Cholesterol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Rna, Caffeine, Polysorbate 80, Caprylyl Glycol, Phytosphingosine, Squalane, Potassium Sulfate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tripeptide-32, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499

Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Cyclohexasiloxane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate

Cetyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Betaine

Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Collagen Extract

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract

Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract

Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Pancratium Maritimum Extract

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Triticum Aestivum Peptide

Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Soluble Collagen

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Oryza Sativa Germ Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Methylpropanediol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Polyacrylate-13

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Behenyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate

Vinyldimethicone

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Allantoin

Glycosyl Trehalose

Panthenol

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Xanthan Gum

Adenosine

Raffinose

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Micrococcus Lysate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Lecithin

Ceramide NP

Polyquaternium-51

Sodium Laurate

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Lauric Acid

Cyanocobalamin

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Human Stem Cell Conditioned Media

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Collagen Water

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Xylitylglucoside

Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Anhydroxylitol

Xylitol

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Glycolipids

Sorbitan Laurate

Glucose

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Capryloyl Glycine

Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Maltodextrin

Hexylene Glycol

Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Collagen

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate

Tetrahydropiperine

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Collagen Amino Acids

Mannitol

Lactic Acid

Sarcosine

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Rutin

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Alanine

Arginine

Asparagine

Aspartic Acid

Citrulline

Cysteine

Glutamic Acid

Glutamine

Glycine

Histidine

Isoleucine

Leucine

Lysine

Methionine

Ornithine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Serine

Taurine

Threonine

Tryptophan

Tyrosine

Valine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17

Capryloyl Dipeptide-17

Acetyl Glutamine

Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12

Dipotassium Phosphate

Hyaluronic Acid

Potassium Hyaluronate

Pantothenic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Gluconolactone

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Palmitic Acid

Glycine Soja Peptide

Saccharomyces Polypeptides

Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol

Stearic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Atelocollagen

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Capryloyl Sh-Nonapeptide-6

Rh-Polypeptide-1

Avena Sativa Peptide

Glycine Max Polypeptide

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Calcium Gluconate

Dipeptide-2

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Nonapeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-2

Hexapeptide-9

Tripeptide-2

Dipeptide-1

Pentapeptide-3

Tripeptide-3

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Dipeptide-4

Oligopeptide-6

Retinyl Palmitate

Biotin

Ascorbic Acid

Riboflavin

Thiamine Hcl

Folic Acid

Pyridoxine

Menadione

Myristic Acid

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Sh-Polypeptide-4

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-14

Sh-Polypeptide-16

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Parfum

Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Water, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Betaine, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Collagen Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Triticum Aestivum Peptide, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Soluble Collagen, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Methylpropanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Vinyldimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Allantoin, Glycosyl Trehalose, Panthenol, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Raffinose, Cholesterol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Disodium EDTA, Micrococcus Lysate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lecithin, Propanediol, Ceramide NP, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Laurate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Lauric Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Tromethamine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Human Stem Cell Conditioned Media, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Collagen Water, Tocopheryl Acetate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Xylitylglucoside, Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Glycolipids, Sorbitan Laurate, Glucose, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Capryloyl Glycine, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Maltodextrin, Hexylene Glycol, Squalane, Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Collagen, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Tetrahydropiperine, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Collagen Amino Acids, Mannitol, Lactic Acid, Sarcosine, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Rutin, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Citrulline, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Ornithine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Taurine, Threonine, Tryptophan, Tyrosine, Valine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, 3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17, Capryloyl Dipeptide-17, Acetyl Glutamine, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Dipotassium Phosphate, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Pantothenic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Gluconolactone, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Palmitic Acid, Glycine Soja Peptide, Saccharomyces Polypeptides, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Atelocollagen, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Capryloyl Sh-Nonapeptide-6, Rh-Polypeptide-1, Avena Sativa Peptide, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Calcium Gluconate, Dipeptide-2, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-2, Dipeptide-1, Pentapeptide-3, Tripeptide-3, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Dipeptide-4, Oligopeptide-6, Retinyl Palmitate, Biotin, Ascorbic Acid, Riboflavin, Thiamine Hcl, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine, Menadione, Myristic Acid, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-4, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-14, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 80, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic ingredient made by fermenting Bifidobacterium to extract a nutrient-rich mix of peptides, amino acids, vitamins, organic acids, and polysaccharides.

These components are basically the building blocks that your skin already uses to stay hydrated, repair itself, and maintain its barrier. That's why this ingredient helps your skin hold onto moisture and stay resilient against irritation.

One in-vitro study found that this ingredient tells your skin cells to produce more of the proteins (filaggrin, loricrin, and involucrin) for building a strong and healthy barrier. This study also found this ingredient to be a solid antioxidant that helped neutralize damage against UV and pollution.

A study with people from 2010 found that sensitive, reactive skin using a cream with 10% of this ingredient for a month became noticeably less dry, less reactive, and harder to irritate compared to the group using a plain cream.

In short, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient that can help with barrier repair, antioxidant protection, and calming reactive skin.

This ingredient is generally considered fungal acne (Malassezia) safe; Bifidobacterium is a bacterium, not a yeast or fungus.

The fungal acne concern with fermented ingredients mainly applies to yeast-derived ferments like Saccharomyces and Galactomyces, because those are in the same kingdom as Malassezia and could theoretically contain residual compounds that feed it.

Bifida is a completely different organism, so on its own it doesn't provide a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.

Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.

Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

This ingredient is made when the Lactobacillus bacteria (the same kind that makes yogurt and kimchi) are allowed to ferment a nutrient medium.

As it ferments, it collects lactic acid, peptides, enzymes, and other bioactive metabolites to provide:

A 2023 review noted that probiotic fermentation ingredients like this one can enhance antioxidant capacity, reduce UV-induced oxidative damage, and support barrier function.

One clinical study from the same year showed a Lactobacillus ferment lysate significantly reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration.

Another review highlighted that topical Lactobacillus-based preparations can improve ceramide levels in the stratum corneum, support barrier integrity, and even help reduce S. aureus colonization in atopic dermatitis.

Why is this so cool?

Basically, your skin's outer layer works as a brick wall; skin cells are bricks and ceramides are the mortar holding it together. Moisture escapes, irritants get in, and your skin gets dry and reactive when ceramide levels drop. On top of that, "bad" skin bacteria S. aureus loves to move in when your barrier is weak to make inflammation and irritation worse.

So Lactobacillus ferment is basically patching the wall and evicting the troublemaker when it boosts ceramide production and help keep S. aureus in check.

On top of all this, it also acts as a mild antimicrobial preservative booster.

Just so you know, most studies focus on specific strains or the lysate form rather than this generic "Lactobacillus Ferment", so results can vary.

Though it's a promising ingredient, it doesn't have decades of robust clinical data behind it just yet.

Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.

Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.

Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.

Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.

It reduces the surface tension between oil and water phases to help them stay mixed and stable in a formulation. In other words, it prevents your formulas from separating into an oily mess.

The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the scientific data and found this ingredient to be safe, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 5% (it's even approved by the FDA as an OTC eye drop ingredient).

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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About the author

Peptide Therapy Guide Editorial Team

Editorial team for Peptide Therapy Guide.

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