ESPA Overnight Glow Enzyme Peel Versus Elemis Peptide4 Overnight Radiance Peel

ESPA Overnight Glow Enzyme Peel Versus Elemis Peptide4 Overnight Radiance Peel

This smoothing overnight mask is formulated around Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Myristyl Myristate

Cetyl Alcohol

C12-16 Alcohols

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Coco-Caprylate

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Linoleic Acid

Levulinic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Palmitic Acid

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Limonene

Xanthan Gum

Parfum

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopherol

Glycine Soja Oil

Lysolecithin

Sclerotium Gum

Sodium Levulinate

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Linalool

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sodium Gluconate

Pullulan

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Citrus Aurantifolia Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Citric Acid

Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract

Silica

Linolenic Acid

Spirulina Maxima Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Sodium Hydroxide

Beta-Carotene

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Myristyl Myristate, Cetyl Alcohol, C12-16 Alcohols, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Coco-Caprylate, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Levulinic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Levulinate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Linalool, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Gluconate, Pullulan, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Citric Acid, Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract, Silica, Linolenic Acid, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Beta-Carotene, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Lactic Acid

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Squalane

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Perilla Ocymoides Seed Oil

Disodium EDTA

Matthiola Longipetala Seed Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Magnesium Hydroxide

Benzyl Benzoate

Yeast Extract

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

T-Butyl Alcohol

Hexyl Cinnamal

Potassium Sorbate

Soy Amino Acids

Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil

Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein

Eugenol

Coumarin

Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Oil

Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil

Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil

Water, Lactic Acid, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycerin, Squalane, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Parfum, Perilla Ocymoides Seed Oil, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Disodium EDTA, Matthiola Longipetala Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Magnesium Hydroxide, Benzyl Benzoate, Yeast Extract, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Linalool, Limonene, T-Butyl Alcohol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Potassium Sorbate, Soy Amino Acids, Xanthan Gum, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Eugenol, Coumarin, Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil, Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil, Tocopherol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as Ylang Ylang essential oil.

There are several grades of this oil according to when the flowers are obtained so the exact makeup varies by origin, grade, and extraction.

In cosmetics, its job is mostly sensory: it has a sweet, floral scent often used in perfume.

Chemically, it's complex mix of fragrant molecules: geraniol, limonene, linalool and benzyl benzoate.

Several of these components are on the EU's list of recognized fragrance allergens; this means they have to be labeled when present above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

This ingredient is a known contact sensitizer for a small amount of people so it's definitely worth patch-testing if your skin is reactive.

Lab studies have found the oils does have real antioxidant and antibacterial activity, but keep in mind these are in-vitro findings rather than proven skincare benefits.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil is oil from the peel of an orange fruit.

Limonene and linalool make up the majority of oils from citrus peels. Limonene has a "citrus" fragrance. Citrus peels also contain flavonoids, which have anti-inflammatory properties.

Citrus peel is also a rich source of flavonoids. Flavonoids are natural antioxidants and help protect your skin against damage. Flavonoids are a group of compounds naturally found in vegetables and fruits.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe. It can help to reduce redness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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