Embryolisse Lait Crème Sensitive Versus Biologique Recherche La Grande Crème

Embryolisse Lait Crème Sensitive Versus Biologique Recherche La Grande Crème

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Octyldodecanol

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Cera Alba

Jojoba Esters

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Glyceryl Stearate

Xanthan Gum

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Hydroxide

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Polyglycerin-3

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Tocopherol

Tropolone

Glycine Soja Oil

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cera Alba, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Glyceryl Stearate, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyglycerin-3, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Tocopherol, Tropolone, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Propanediol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Methylpropanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Undecane

Ceteareth-20

Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate

Sorbitan Stearate

Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Juice Extract

Soy Isoflavones

Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract

Jasminum Officinale Oil

Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract

Yeast Extract

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Hydrolyzed Royal Jelly Protein

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl

Sodium Gluconate

Sodium Lactate

Proline

Carum Carvi Seed Oil

Mentha Piperita Oil

Cetyl Palmitate

Cocoglycerides

Lecithin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Maltodextrin

Butylene Glycol

Carbomer

Tridecane

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Alcohol

Triethanolamine

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polysorbate 20

Phenylpropanol

Phenethyl Alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Limonene

Water, Octyldodecanol, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Methylpropanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Undecane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-20, Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Cera Alba, Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Juice Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract, Jasminum Officinale Oil, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Yeast Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Royal Jelly Protein, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Lactate, Proline, Carum Carvi Seed Oil, Mentha Piperita Oil, Cetyl Palmitate, Cocoglycerides, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Tridecane, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Triethanolamine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Limonene

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cera alba is beeswax, or the wax used by bees to make honeycombs. It is a texture-enhancer and emollient. A study from 2003 found beeswax to be a stronger emollient than ingredients such as petroleum jelly.

As an emollient, beeswax helps hydrate the skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier traps moisture in.

Emulsifiers help prevent ingredients from separating. This helps create consistent texture.

The structure of beeswax is mainly long-chain alcohols and the esters of fatty acids.

There are three types of beeswax: yellow, white, and absolute. Yellow is pure beeswax taken from the honeycomb. White beeswax is created by filtering or bleaching yellow beeswax. Absolute beeswax is created by treating beeswax with alcohol. Beeswax used in cosmetics are purified.

Beeswax has been used throughout history and even in prehistoric times. Some common uses for beeswax still used today are making candles, as a waterproofing agent, and polish for leather.

Beeswax's wax esters are derived primarily from palmitic and oleic acid (C16 and C18:1). Both of these fall within the C11-C24 feeding window.

The Malassezia yeast can potentially cleave these esters and release usable fatty acids, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. However, not everyone will react to this ingredient.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).

It is:

You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.

This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.

Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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