Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel Versus The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel Versus The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Alcohol Denat.

Glycolic Acid

Potassium Hydroxide

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Salicylic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Citric Acid

Lactic Acid

Malic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Soy Isoflavones

Copper PCA

Zinc PCA

Lecithin

Disodium EDTA

Alcohol

Polysorbate 80

Parfum

Linalool

Benzyl Salicylate

Benzoic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Bicarbonate

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Resveratrol

Ubiquinone

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Phospholipids

Sodium PCA

Dimethicone

PEG-30 Stearate

Octoxynol-9

BHT

Tetrasodium EDTA

Sorbic Acid

Water, Alcohol Denat., Glycolic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Copper PCA, Zinc PCA, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Polysorbate 80, Parfum, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Bicarbonate, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Resveratrol, Ubiquinone, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phospholipids, Sodium PCA, Dimethicone, PEG-30 Stearate, Octoxynol-9, BHT, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid

Niacinamide 10%

Pentylene Glycol

Zinc PCA 1%

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum

Xanthan Gum

Isoceteth-20

Ethoxydiglycol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Niacinamide 10%, Pentylene Glycol, Zinc PCA 1%, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Xanthan Gum, Isoceteth-20, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Zinc PCA is a clever two-in-one molecule: the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA).

Think of it as two useful things bonded together; the PCA half is one of your skin's own natural moisturizing factors (NMF) so it helps hold water in the upper layers. On the other hand, the zinc half does the heavy lifting on oil and bacteria.

The zinc part slows down an enzyme that turns testosterone into DHT, the hormone that tells your oil glands to pump out more sebum. Less of that signal means less oil. It also gently fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes redness/irritation.

This is why Zinc PCA often shows up in products for oily, breakout-prone skin and greasy scalps.

One lab study also hinted it might have a small anti-aging perk because it seemed to protect collagen from UVA damage and even helped the skin make a bit more of it. That last bit is still early research done in a dish and not real skin, so take it as a nice bonus rather than a promise for now.

As for scar healing, the picture is more "maybe" than a firm yes. Zinc itself plays a real role in wound repair because it is a cofactor for the enzymes involved in collagen building, calming inflammation, and helping new skin cells cover a wound. Lower zinc levels are also linked to slower healing.

Most of the scar healing research is on zinc oxide or oral zinc rather than zinc PCA specifically, with a focus on healing fresh wounds instead of scars that are already there.

Direct evidence that zinc PCA improves the look of established scars is still limited at this time. Though it would be fair to say zinc PCA supports the general skin-repair environment thanks to its zinc content .

This ingredient is water-soluble and plays nicely with other actives like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It works best at mildly acidic formulas (~4-6 pH) and is effective at low levels. Around 0.1% is enough to be active and finished products commonly use it anywhere up to 4%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-drama multitasker that suits oily and acne-prone skin.

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