Educational guide
Dior Capture Youth Intense Rescue Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate
Dior Capture Youth Intense Rescue Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate This hydrating serum is formulated around Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This
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Dior Capture Youth Intense Rescue Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate
This hydrating serum is formulated around Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This calming serum is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment and Resveratrol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Propanediol
Methyl Gluceth-20
Phenoxyethanol
PPG-26-Buteth-26
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Parfum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Hydroxide
Amodimethicone
Aphanothece Sacrum Polysaccharide
Carbomer
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Disodium EDTA
Adenosine
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate
Iris Florentina Root Extract
BHT
CI 19140
CI 14700
Tocopherol
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Phenoxyethanol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Parfum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Amodimethicone, Aphanothece Sacrum Polysaccharide, Carbomer, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Iris Florentina Root Extract, BHT, CI 19140, CI 14700, Tocopherol
Methyl Trimethicone
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Isopropyl Isostearate
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Faex Extract
Tripeptide-32
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Algin
Lactobacillus Ferment
Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Soy Amino Acids
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Resveratrol
Algae Extract
Salicylic Acid
Ergothioneine
Tocopheryl Acetate
Whey Protein
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Caffeine
Sodium PCA
Propylene Glycol Caprylate
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Isohexadecane
Polysilicone-11
Methyldihydrojasmonate
Sodium Lactate
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Isododecane
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Squalane
Polyethylene
Propylene Carbonate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Linalool
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Methyl Trimethicone, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Isopropyl Isostearate, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Faex Extract, Tripeptide-32, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Algin, Lactobacillus Ferment, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Soy Amino Acids, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Resveratrol, Algae Extract, Salicylic Acid, Ergothioneine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Whey Protein, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Sodium PCA, Propylene Glycol Caprylate, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Isohexadecane, Polysilicone-11, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Sodium Lactate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Isododecane, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Squalane, Polyethylene, Propylene Carbonate, Pentylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Linalool, CI 14700, CI 19140
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ci 14700, also known as Red No. 4, is a synthetic red dye derived from petroleum. It is water soluble.
CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!