Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser Versus Biologique Recherche Lait Vip 02

Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser Versus Biologique Recherche Lait Vip 02

This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse while calming and soothing your skin.

This cream cleanser uses mild cleansing ingredients, but contains alcohol that may feel drying for some.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cetearyl Alcohol

Bisabolol

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Glycerin

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Usnea Barbata Extract

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract

Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Fumaric Acid

Echinacea Purpurea Extract

Panthenol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Cocamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate

Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate

Cetrimonium Chloride

Aminomethyl Propanol

Glyceryl Caprylate

Disodium EDTA

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Usnea Barbata Extract, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Fumaric Acid, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cocamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Disodium EDTA

Squalane

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Isononanoate

Glyceryl Stearate

Amniotic Fluid

Perfluorodecalin

PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate

Ceteareth-20

Propylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Polyacrylamide

Cetyl Palmitate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Alcohol Denat.

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Ethyl Oleate

Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether

Ethyl Linolenate

Poloxamer 188

Laureth-7

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrolyzed Gelatin

Niacinamide

Lactic Acid

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Hydrolyzed Silk

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Yeast Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Embryo Extract

Magnesium Chloride

Vinegar

Tea-Lactate

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Lactate

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Alcohol

Sorbitol

Ethyl Linoleate

Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract

Papain

Myrtus Communis Extract

Allium Cepa Bulb Extract

Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Serine

Urea

Allantoin

Rhizobian Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract

Tocopherol

Potassium Sorbate

Chlorphenesin

Thiamine Hcl

Pyridoxine Hcl

Sodium Salicylate

Sorbic Acid

Water, Squalane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Amniotic Fluid, Perfluorodecalin, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylamide, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alcohol Denat., C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ethyl Oleate, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether, Ethyl Linolenate, Poloxamer 188, Laureth-7, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Gelatin, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hydrolyzed Silk, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Yeast Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Embryo Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Vinegar, Tea-Lactate, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Alcohol, Sorbitol, Ethyl Linoleate, Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Papain, Myrtus Communis Extract, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Tocopherol, Potassium Sorbate, Chlorphenesin, Thiamine Hcl, Pyridoxine Hcl, Sodium Salicylate, Sorbic Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

This extract comes from cucumber. Cucumbers are mostly made up of water (95%), and the other 5% is composed of: vitamin C, caffeic acid, fatty acids, amino acids, and other minerals.

Cucumbers have anti-inflammatory, barrier repair, and hydrating properties.

They contain shikimate dehydrigenase, an enzyme shown to help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin.

The amino acids found in cucumbers help nourish our skin's natural acid mantle (it's an important part of our skin barrier). This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to protect us from bacteria, viruses, and other contaminants.

Unless you have an allergy to cucumbers, this is generally a non-irritating ingredient.

Fun fact: Cucumis Sativus is native to South Asia and can now be found on every continent.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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