Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Creme A.D.N Metamorphique

Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Creme A.D.N Metamorphique

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate

Stearic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Aloe Barbadensis Extract

Dimethicone

PEG-8

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Saccharide Isomerate

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Hedera Helix Extract

Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract

Parietaria Officinalis Extract

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Trehalose

Algin

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Serine

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Phytosterols

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Urea

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Pullulan

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Hexanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Sodium Citrate

Disodium Phosphate

Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Potassium Phosphate

Citric Acid

Tocopherol

Methylpropanediol

Polysorbate 60

Panthenol

Polyquaternium-10

Cetyl Alcohol

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Aminomethyl Propanol

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Hydroxystearic Acid

BHT

Benzyl Benzoate

Benzyl Salicylate

Linalool

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Dimethicone, PEG-8, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Hedera Helix Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Parietaria Officinalis Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Trehalose, Algin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Serine, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Phytosterols, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Urea, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pullulan, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sodium Citrate, Disodium Phosphate, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Phosphate, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Methylpropanediol, Polysorbate 60, Panthenol, Polyquaternium-10, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxystearic Acid, BHT, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

C10-18 Triglycerides

Smithsonite Extract

C12-16 Alcohols

Palmitic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Tapioca Starch

Secale Cereale Seed Extract

Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract

Helichrysum Stoechas Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Plantago Lanceolata Seed Extract

Lycium Barbarum Callus Culture Extract

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33

Maltodextrin

Lecithin

Isomalt

1,2-Hexanediol

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Phenylpropanol

Phenethyl Alcohol

Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C10-18 Triglycerides, Smithsonite Extract, Glycerin, C12-16 Alcohols, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Tapioca Starch, Secale Cereale Seed Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Helichrysum Stoechas Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Plantago Lanceolata Seed Extract, Lycium Barbarum Callus Culture Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33, Maltodextrin, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Isomalt, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol, Phenethyl Alcohol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.

As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.

Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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