Depology Peptide Complex 10% Wrinkle Defense Serum Versus Asterwood Naturals Matrixyl 3000 + Argireline Anti Aging Serum

Depology Peptide Complex 10% Wrinkle Defense Serum Versus Asterwood Naturals Matrixyl 3000 + Argireline Anti Aging Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Isopentyldiol

1,2-Hexanediol

Panthenol

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Glycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Ceramide NP

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Tocopherol

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Tromethamine

Carbomer

Octyldodeceth-16

Ethylhexylglycerin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Disodium EDTA

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Pinus Strobus Bark Extract

Hexapeptide-9

Maltodextrin

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Linalool

Water, Isopentyldiol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Octyldodeceth-16, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Pinus Strobus Bark Extract, Hexapeptide-9, Maltodextrin, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Linalool

Polysorbate 20

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Hyaluronic Acid

Benzoic Acid

Dehydroacetic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Potassium Sorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Phenoxyethanol, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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