Cosmed Renewing Serum With 0.5% Retinol And Peptide Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Poremizing Fresh Ampoule

Cosmed Renewing Serum With 0.5% Retinol And Peptide Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Poremizing Fresh Ampoule

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This smoothing ampoule is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Pentylene Glycol

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Water

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Saccharide Isomerate

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Panthenol

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Retinol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Acacia Senegal Gum

Potassium Sorbate

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract

Dextran

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Zantedeschia Elliottiana Flower Extract

Bakuchiol

Pentylene Glycol, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Water, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Saccharide Isomerate, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Panthenol, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Retinol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract, Dextran, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Zantedeschia Elliottiana Flower Extract, Bakuchiol

Propanediol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glycereth-26

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Mineral Salts

Tripeptide-3

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-2

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycereth-26, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glycerin, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Mineral Salts, Tripeptide-3, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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