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Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate

Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This ca

Written by Peptide Therapy Guide Editorial Team
For education only

This guide cannot diagnose a condition or recommend a personal treatment plan. Discuss medical questions with a qualified professional.

Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This calming serum is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment and Resveratrol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Isododecane

Dimethicone

Cyclopentasiloxane

Polysilicone-11

Butylene Glycol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

PEG-10 Dimethicone

PEG-6

Citrus Grandis Peel Extract

Morus Nigra Root Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract

Gentiana Lutea Root Extract

Algae Extract

Plankton Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Glycerin

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Faex Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Ergothioneine

Whey Protein

Polysorbate 20

Micrococcus Lysate

Cholesterol

Di-C12-18 Alkyl Dimonium Chloride

Salicylic Acid

Isohexadecane

Propylene Glycol Dicaprate

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Caffeine

Glycine Soja Protein

Tocopheryl Acetate

Acetyl Glucosamine

Caprylyl Glycol

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Dimethoxytolyl Propylresorcinol

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Tromethamine

Polysorbate 80

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Rna

Squalane

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

PEG-8

Lecithin

Hexylene Glycol

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Tin Oxide

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

CI 19140

CI 14700

CI 77891

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Calcium Chloride

Sea Whip Extract

Water, Isododecane, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicone-11, Butylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-6, Citrus Grandis Peel Extract, Morus Nigra Root Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Algae Extract, Plankton Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Glycerin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Faex Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Ergothioneine, Whey Protein, Polysorbate 20, Micrococcus Lysate, Cholesterol, Di-C12-18 Alkyl Dimonium Chloride, Salicylic Acid, Isohexadecane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Caffeine, Glycine Soja Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Dimethoxytolyl Propylresorcinol, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Tromethamine, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Rna, Squalane, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, PEG-8, Lecithin, Hexylene Glycol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Tin Oxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, CI 19140, CI 14700, CI 77891, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Calcium Chloride, Sea Whip Extract

Methyl Trimethicone

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Isopropyl Isostearate

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether

Tripeptide-32

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Algin

Lactobacillus Ferment

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract

Soy Amino Acids

Resveratrol

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Sodium PCA

Propylene Glycol Caprylate

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Methyldihydrojasmonate

Sodium Lactate

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polyethylene

Propylene Carbonate

Pentylene Glycol

BHT

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Linalool

Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Methyl Trimethicone, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Isopropyl Isostearate, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Faex Extract, Tripeptide-32, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Algin, Lactobacillus Ferment, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Soy Amino Acids, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Resveratrol, Algae Extract, Salicylic Acid, Ergothioneine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Whey Protein, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Sodium PCA, Propylene Glycol Caprylate, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Isohexadecane, Polysilicone-11, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Sodium Lactate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Isododecane, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Squalane, Polyethylene, Propylene Carbonate, Pentylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Linalool, CI 14700, CI 19140

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Algae Extract is a confusing name. This is because algae is an informal term for a group of 30,000 aquatic organisms that can photosynthesize.

The term 'algae extract' can refer to any one, or a blend of, the 30,000 types.

Algae is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

Algae can also help with soothing and hydrating skin.

Many different types of algae have different benefits.

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP) is a form of Vitamin C. AAP was made as a more stable alternative to Ascorbic Acid by combining Ascorbic Acid (pure Vitamin C) with 3-aminoproply dehydrogen phosphate.

As a type of Vitamin C, it has antioxidant properties. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin cells.

AAP has been shown to help reduce signs of hyperigmentation and age-spots.

AAP is water soluble.

Vitamin C can help to reduce redness, improve skin texture, reduce the effects of aging, and reduce the visibility of dark spots.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Ci 14700, also known as Red No. 4, is a synthetic red dye derived from petroleum. It is water soluble.

CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.

Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.

Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ergothioneine is an amino acid found naturally in mushrooms, grains, and meat. It has antioxidant and skin soothing properties.

This amino acid helps with:

Maintaining DNA stability and cell reproduction

Enhances cellular immunity

Skin brightening

Anti-aging

Skin soothing

We don't have a description for Faex Extract yet.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hordeum Vulgare Extract is an extract of barley, the same grain used in beer and bread.

In skincare, it is a skin conditioning and hydrating agent. This ingredient contains polyphenols, vitamin E, and trace minerals like zinc, copper, and selenium that help neutralize free radicals behind oxidative skin stress.

Lab studies on human skin cells show it can support the skin barrier, boost cell survival, and speed repair after UV exposure.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has reviewed 16 barley-derived ingredients and concluded they're safe as used with the highest reported use concentration being 1.5% (in leave-on body/hand products).

Patch testing has also found it not to be a skin irritant or sensitizer at cosmetic levels.

However, barley is a recognized food allergen so people with a known barley/grain allergy should approach it cautiously.

Note: This ingredient is not gluten-free for those avoiding gluten for skin-contact reasons.

Isododecane is a fragrance, emollient, and solvent.

As an emollient, it helps your skin stay soft and hydrated. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin.

Isododecane's role as a solvent makes it a great texture enhancer. It spreads smoothly on skin and does not leave a sticky feeling behind. Isododecane also helps prevent color transfer in makeup products.

Isododecane is not absorbed into skin.

The chemical name for this ingredient is 2,2,4,6,6-PENTAMETHYLHEPTANE.

Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.

Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.

Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.

Peg-10 Dimethicone is silicone with conditioner and emulsifier properties. It mostly acts as an emollient in skincare and and humectant in haircare.

According to the manufacturer, acidic formulations decrease the stability of this ingredient. It works best in neutral or near neutral formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysilicone-11 is a film-forming silicone that creates a non-tacky and matte finish on the skin. It's commonly used to improve texture, absorb excess oil, and help active ingredients spread evenly.

Due to its "rubber-like" structure, it stays on the skin's surface instead of being absorbed. On the skin, it creates a flexible layer that enhances wearability and stability.

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

This ingredient is extracted from the germ part of the wheat plant. The germ of a plant refers to the seed embryo, or part that sprouts into a new plant.

Some studies have found wheat germ to help with wound healing.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

We don't have a description for Whey Protein yet.

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Peptide Therapy Guide Editorial Team

Editorial team for Peptide Therapy Guide.

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