Educational guide
Centellian24 360° Shot PDRN Active Serum Versus Sungboon Editor Silk Peptide Intensive Lifting Ampoule
Centellian24 360° Shot PDRN Active Serum Versus Sungboon Editor Silk Peptide Intensive Lifting Ampoule This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging serum i
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Centellian24 360° Shot PDRN Active Serum Versus Sungboon Editor Silk Peptide Intensive Lifting Ampoule
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Polyglycerin-3
Methyl Gluceth-20
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Methylpropanediol
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Pichia Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Tromethamine
Sodium DNA
Xylitol
Allantoin
Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Sodium Hyaluronate
C12-13 Alketh-3
Parfum
Dextrin
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Sodium Phytate
Beta-Glucan
Limonene
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Tocopherol
Glycosaminoglycans
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Leaf/Stem Extract
Collagen Amino Acids
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Tillandsia Usneoides Extract
Ethyl Hexanediol
Collagen Extract
Aspergillus Ferment
Swiftlet Nest Extract
Water, Glycerin, Polyglycerin-3, Methyl Gluceth-20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Pichia Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Tromethamine, Sodium DNA, Xylitol, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, C12-13 Alketh-3, Parfum, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Sodium Phytate, Beta-Glucan, Limonene, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Glycosaminoglycans, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Leaf/Stem Extract, Collagen Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Tillandsia Usneoides Extract, Ethyl Hexanediol, Collagen Extract, Aspergillus Ferment, Swiftlet Nest Extract
Carbomer
PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Silk Extract
Iron Powder
Agar
Disodium EDTA
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Betaine
Panthenol
Titanium Dioxide
CI 77491
Mica
Gellan Gum
Centella Asiatica Extract
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract
Lecithin
Acetyl Glutamine
Phenoxyethanol
Artemisia Vulgaris Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Tin Oxide
Gold
Squalane
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Benzyl Glycol
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Bacillus
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Collagen
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Caffeoyl Hexapeptide-65
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sh-Decapeptide-7
Sh-Octapeptide-4
Sh-Oligopeptide-9
Sh-Pentapeptide-19
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Hyaluronic Acid
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Carbomer, Tromethamine, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Silk Extract, Adenosine, Iron Powder, Agar, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Betaine, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Titanium Dioxide, CI 77491, Mica, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Centella Asiatica Extract, Propanediol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Phenoxyethanol, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Tin Oxide, Gold, Squalane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Benzyl Glycol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Bacillus, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Collagen, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Caffeoyl Hexapeptide-65, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hyaluronic Acid, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.
In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.
The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.
This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.
It's worth being realistic here:
Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).
However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.
Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).
Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.
If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Elastin yet.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!