Educational guide
Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 PA +++ Versus COOLA Classic Face Sunscreen SPF 50
Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 PA +++ Versus COOLA Classic Face Sunscreen SPF 50 This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30. This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep
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Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 PA +++ Versus COOLA Classic Face Sunscreen SPF 50
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.
This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Zinc Oxide
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Squalane
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Methyl Dihydroabietate
Sorbitan Olivate
Coco-Glucoside
Cetyl Palmitate
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Acacia Senegal Gum
Ethyl Ferulate
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Gluconate
Lecithin
Sodium Palmitoyl Proline
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Isostearic Acid
Zinc Oxide, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Methyl Dihydroabietate, Sorbitan Olivate, Coco-Glucoside, Cetyl Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Acacia Senegal Gum, Ethyl Ferulate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate, Lecithin, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Isostearic Acid
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.75%
Homosalate 5%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 2%
Octocrylene 5%
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Camelina Sativa Seed Oil
Tropolone
Sodium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Sorbitan Palmitate
Dimethicone
Sorbitan Oleate
Gluconolactone
Silica
Sodium Phytate
Sodium Benzoate
Polysilicone-11
Butylene Glycol
Decyl Glucoside
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.75%, Homosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 2%, Octocrylene 5%, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes, Water, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Glycerin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Squalane, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Tropolone, Cetyl Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Palmitate, Methyl Dihydroabietate, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone, Sorbitan Oleate, Gluconolactone, Silica, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Benzoate, Polysilicone-11, Butylene Glycol, Decyl Glucoside
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Cetyl Palmitate is a wax-ester that pulls triple duty as an emollient, thickener, and emulsion enhancer.
It helps enhance the texture of products by giving a smooth, silky feel while helping to stabilize the formula. The emollient action softens skin and reduces moisture loss.
This ingredient is considered safe and human testing of concentrations between 2.5-2.7% were found minimal irritation. Just know, there have been very rare cases of the palmitate family causing contact dermatitis.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it contains a C16 ester (palmitic acid) that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
We don't have a description for Methyl Dihydroabietate yet.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.