Biossance Squalane + Tea Tree Detox Mask Versus Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment

Biossance Squalane + Tea Tree Detox Mask Versus Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment

This wash off mask is made with Squalane and Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

This smoothing overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Montmorillonite

Illite

Squalane

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Kaolin

Sorbitan Olivate

Propanediol

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Phytate

Linalool

Water, Montmorillonite, Illite, Squalane, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Kaolin, Sorbitan Olivate, Propanediol, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Phytate, Linalool

C9-12 Alkane

Niacinamide

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Maris Aqua

Glycolic Acid

Lactic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Sodium PCA

Saccharide Isomerate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polysorbate 60

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Sodium Magnesium Silicate

Sodium Lactate

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Citrate

Disodium Phosphate

Sodium Phosphate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sodium Benzoate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Parfum

Water, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Maris Aqua, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Sodium PCA, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Magnesium Silicate, Sodium Lactate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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