Biossance Squalane + Glycolic Renewal Mask Versus Fresh Vitamin Nectar Glow Face Mask

Biossance Squalane + Glycolic Renewal Mask Versus Fresh Vitamin Nectar Glow Face Mask

This wash off mask is formulated around Glycolic Acid to exfoliate and smooth skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Glycolic Acid

Squalane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Stearyl Alcohol

Arachidyl Alcohol

Clay Mineral Oxides

Behenyl Alcohol

Sodium Hydroxide

Lactic Acid

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Acer Saccharum Extract

Kaolin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xanthan Gum

Diheptyl Succinate

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Citric Acid

Tartaric Acid

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Montmorillonite

Illite

Acacia Senegal Gum

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Arachidyl Glucoside

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Phytate

Limonene

Water, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Clay Mineral Oxides, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactic Acid, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Kaolin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Diheptyl Succinate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citric Acid, Tartaric Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Montmorillonite, Illite, Acacia Senegal Gum, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Arachidyl Glucoside, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Limonene

Glucose

Citrus Clementina Fruit Extract

Citrus Sinensis Fruit Extract

Fructose

Pyrus Cydonia Seed Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Butylene Glycol

Sclerotium Gum

Parfum

Sodium Citrate

Tetrasodium EDTA

Panthenol

Caramel

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Magnesium Aspartate

Zinc Gluconate

CI 75120

Copper Gluconate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Metabisulfite

Water, Glucose, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citrus Clementina Fruit Extract, Citrus Sinensis Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Fructose, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Cydonia Seed Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Sclerotium Gum, Parfum, Sodium Citrate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Caramel, Citric Acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, CI 75120, Copper Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Limonene

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

We don't have a description for Acer Saccharum Extract yet.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract is more commonly known as the bitter orange. Native to Southeast Asia, this extract is commonly found in both cosmetics and foods.

The bitter orange possesses antibacterial and antioxidant properties.

It can also be mildly exfoliating due to the citric acid, an AHA.

Citrus fruits are rich in flavonoids, alkaloids, and vitamin C.

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract comes from lemons. While lemon extract is exfoliating and antimicrobial, it can also cause skin sensitivity.

Lemons contains antioxidants, which may help with anti-aging. They are also rich in citric acid, an AHA.

And of course, lemons are rich in Vitamin C. Vitamin C helps with skin-brightening and increasing collagen production.

The acidity of lemons may work as an astringent for acne.

However, lemons can also cause skin sensitivity due to its limonene content. It can also increase photosensitivity, or sensitivity to the sun.

This ingredient is also used to add a lemon scent to products.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

This ingredient is also called sugarcane extract. It is a moisturizing humectant and has skin soothing properties.

Similar to hyaluronic acid, sugarcane can attract moisture to your skin.

Glycolic acid is a derivative of sugarcane. While glycolic acid is an AHA with exfoliating properties, sugarcane is not an AHA.

A study from 2021 found the compounds in sugarcane extract to have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activity. The study also suggests these compounds can inhibit skin ageing enzymes and promote collagen synthesis.

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract comes from the bilberry plant. This plant is native to Eurasia.

Bilberry contains antioxidant compounds called anthocyanins. Anthocyanins help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. Fighting off these molecules can help reduce signs of aging.

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract also helps reduce irritation.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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