Biossance Squalane + 10% Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum Versus Farmacy Very Cherry Bright 15% Clean Vitamin C Serum with Acerola Cherry

Biossance Squalane + 10% Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum Versus Farmacy Very Cherry Bright 15% Clean Vitamin C Serum with Acerola Cherry

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Squalane to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Squalane

Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citric Acid

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Gluconate

Sodium Citrate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

3-Glyceryl Ascorbate

Prunus Cerasus Fruit Water

Propanediol

Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Glucomannan

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Allantoin

Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract

Physalis Angulata Extract

Sorbitol

Sodium Phytate

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Glyceryl Caprylate

Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether

Sclerotium Gum

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Pentylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Butylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Sodium Levulinate

Sodium Anisate

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Glycerin, 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Prunus Cerasus Fruit Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Propanediol, Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Glucomannan, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Physalis Angulata Extract, Sorbitol, Sodium Phytate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether, Sclerotium Gum, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Citric Acid, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.

Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:

In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.

The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.

A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.

Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).

Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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