Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 PIGM 400 Versus Balance Me AHA Glow Mask

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 PIGM 400 Versus Balance Me AHA Glow Mask

This brightening toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This wash off mask is formulated around Glycolic Acid to exfoliate and smooth skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Sodium Gluconate

Triethanolamine

Lactic Acid

Sodium Lactate

Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract

Magnesium Chloride

Mandelic Acid

Palmaria Palmata Extract

Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract

Prunus Persica Leaf Extract

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Phytic Acid

Citric Acid

Gluconolactone

Salicylic Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Maltodextrin

Sodium Salicylate

Vinegar

Propylene Glycol

Magnesium Sulfate

Alcohol Denat.

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Bisulfite

Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sodium Gluconate, Triethanolamine, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Mandelic Acid, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica Leaf Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone, Salicylic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Maltodextrin, Sodium Salicylate, Vinegar, Propylene Glycol, Magnesium Sulfate, Alcohol Denat., Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Bisulfite

Kaolin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Glyceryl Stearate

Glycolic Acid

Cetearyl Glucoside

Malic Acid

Tartaric Acid

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Citrus Medica Fruit Juice Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Angelica Archangelica Leaf Oil

Pelargonium Roseum Leaf Oil

Tilia Cordata Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Silica

Chondrus Crispus Powder

Tocopherol

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Sodium Hydroxide

Dehydroacetic Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Linalool

Limonene

Geraniol

Benzyl Benzoate

Water, Kaolin, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Cetearyl Glucoside, Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Citrus Medica Fruit Juice Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Angelica Archangelica Leaf Oil, Pelargonium Roseum Leaf Oil, Tilia Cordata Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Silica, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol, Benzyl Benzoate

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.

Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.

Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.

Like glycolic acid, it can:

Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.

Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.

To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.

Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.

Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.

When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.

Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.

Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.

The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.

Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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