Biologique Recherche Lait Vip 02 Versus Biossance Squalane + Antioxidant Cleansing Oil

Biologique Recherche Lait Vip 02 Versus Biossance Squalane + Antioxidant Cleansing Oil

This cream cleanser uses mild cleansing ingredients, but contains alcohol that may feel drying for some.

This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Squalane

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Isononanoate

Glyceryl Stearate

Amniotic Fluid

Perfluorodecalin

PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Ceteareth-20

Propylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Polyacrylamide

Cetyl Palmitate

Glycerin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Alcohol Denat.

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Ethyl Oleate

Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether

Ethyl Linolenate

Poloxamer 188

Laureth-7

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrolyzed Gelatin

Niacinamide

Lactic Acid

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Hydrolyzed Silk

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Yeast Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Embryo Extract

Magnesium Chloride

Vinegar

Tea-Lactate

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Lactate

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Alcohol

Sorbitol

Ethyl Linoleate

Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract

Papain

Myrtus Communis Extract

Allium Cepa Bulb Extract

Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Serine

Urea

Allantoin

Rhizobian Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract

Tocopherol

Potassium Sorbate

Chlorphenesin

Thiamine Hcl

Pyridoxine Hcl

Sodium Salicylate

Sorbic Acid

Water, Squalane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Amniotic Fluid, Perfluorodecalin, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylamide, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alcohol Denat., C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ethyl Oleate, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether, Ethyl Linolenate, Poloxamer 188, Laureth-7, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Gelatin, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hydrolyzed Silk, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Yeast Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Embryo Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Vinegar, Tea-Lactate, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Alcohol, Sorbitol, Ethyl Linoleate, Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Papain, Myrtus Communis Extract, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Tocopherol, Potassium Sorbate, Chlorphenesin, Thiamine Hcl, Pyridoxine Hcl, Sodium Salicylate, Sorbic Acid

Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate

Hydrogenated Farnesene

Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate

Triethylhexanoin

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Rosa Moschata Seed Oil

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Lavandula Hybrida Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Limonene

Linalool

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Squalane, Hydrogenated Farnesene, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Triethylhexanoin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Limonene, Linalool

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

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