Biologique Recherche Crème Verte Espoir A.R. Soothing Face Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Dermo-RL Lipid-Replenishing, Regenerating, Moisturizing Cream for the Face

Biologique Recherche Crème Verte Espoir A.R. Soothing Face Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Dermo-RL Lipid-Replenishing, Regenerating, Moisturizing Cream for the Face

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propylene Glycol

Cetyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Oxidized Corn Oil

Stearic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Triethanolamine

Lanolin Oil

Cetearyl Alcohol

Ceteareth-33

Ascorbic Acid

Niacinamide

Yeast Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-2

Phenoxyethanol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glycerin

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Sorbic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Myrtus Communis Extract

Allium Cepa Bulb Extract

Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract

Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Magnesium Chloride

Citric Acid

Tea-Lactate

Sodium Lactate

Lactic Acid

Sorbitol

Serine

Urea

Allantoin

Vinegar

Hydrolyzed Silk

Potassium Sorbate

Gluconolactone

Rhizobian Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Chlorphenesin

Alcohol

Thiamine Hcl

Pyridoxine Hcl

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Salicylic Acid

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Propylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oxidized Corn Oil, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Triethanolamine, Lanolin Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-33, Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Yeast Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-2, Phenoxyethanol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycerin, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Sorbic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Myrtus Communis Extract, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Citric Acid, Tea-Lactate, Sodium Lactate, Lactic Acid, Sorbitol, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Vinegar, Hydrolyzed Silk, Potassium Sorbate, Gluconolactone, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chlorphenesin, Alcohol, Thiamine Hcl, Pyridoxine Hcl, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Salicylic Acid, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Propanediol Dicaprylate

C12-16 Alcohols

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate

Polyamide-5

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil

Xylitylglucoside

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Anhydroxylitol

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Xylitol

Tocopherol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Juglans Regia Seed Extract

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sodium Metabisulfite

Sodium Hydroxide

Benzyl Benzoate

Benzyl Salicylate

Farnesol

Geraniol

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Propanediol Dicaprylate, C12-16 Alcohols, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Polyamide-5, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Xylitylglucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Anhydroxylitol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Xylitol, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Juglans Regia Seed Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Phenoxyethanol, Rhizobian Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Chlorphenesin, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Farnesol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.

In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.

The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.

In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.

It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

We don't have a description for Rhizobian Gum yet.

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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