Educational guide
Biologique Recherche Crème Splendide Toning Face Cream Versus Missha Chogongjin Geumsul Face Cream
Biologique Recherche Crème Splendide Toning Face Cream Versus Missha Chogongjin Geumsul Face Cream This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbyl Glucoside to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging moistur
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Biologique Recherche Crème Splendide Toning Face Cream Versus Missha Chogongjin Geumsul Face Cream
This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbyl Glucoside to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Cetyl Alcohol
Sucrose Polystearate
Jojoba Esters
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Betula Alba Bark Extract
Equisetum Arvense Extract
Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
Terminalia Catappa Leaf Extract
Yeast Extract
Rhizobian Gum
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Tannic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
Tocopherol
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Pvp
Polyglycerin-3
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Sucrose Polystearate, Jojoba Esters, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Terminalia Catappa Leaf Extract, Yeast Extract, Rhizobian Gum, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tannic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Pvp, Polyglycerin-3, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Dipropylene Glycol
Dicaprylyl Ether
Glyceryl Stearate
Betaine
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Diisostearyl Malate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Vinyldimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Dimethiconol
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Trehalose
Polyacrylate-13
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Butylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ceramide NP
Behenyl Alcohol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Parfum
Methylpropanediol
Velvet Extract
Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract
Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Angelica Gigas Root Extract
Alcohol
Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Xanthan Gum
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Codonopsis Lanceolata Root Extract
Royal Jelly Extract
Gold
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Betaine, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Diisostearyl Malate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Vinyldimethicone, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Jojoba Esters, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Dimethiconol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Trehalose, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ceramide NP, Behenyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Parfum, Methylpropanediol, Velvet Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Alcohol, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Codonopsis Lanceolata Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Royal Jelly Extract, Gold
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Jojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.
This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.
Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.
It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!