Educational guide
Biologique Recherche Crème Splendide Toning Face Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Creme A.D.N Metamorphique
Biologique Recherche Crème Splendide Toning Face Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Creme A.D.N Metamorphique This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbyl Glucoside to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. What's inside
This guide cannot diagnose a condition or recommend a personal treatment plan. Discuss medical questions with a qualified professional.
Biologique Recherche Crème Splendide Toning Face Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Creme A.D.N Metamorphique
This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbyl Glucoside to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Cetyl Alcohol
Sucrose Polystearate
Jojoba Esters
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Betula Alba Bark Extract
Equisetum Arvense Extract
Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
Terminalia Catappa Leaf Extract
Yeast Extract
Rhizobian Gum
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Tannic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
Tocopherol
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Pvp
Polyglycerin-3
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Sucrose Polystearate, Jojoba Esters, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Terminalia Catappa Leaf Extract, Yeast Extract, Rhizobian Gum, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tannic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Pvp, Polyglycerin-3, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
C10-18 Triglycerides
Smithsonite Extract
C12-16 Alcohols
Methylpropanediol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Palmitic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Tapioca Starch
Secale Cereale Seed Extract
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Helichrysum Stoechas Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Plantago Lanceolata Seed Extract
Lycium Barbarum Callus Culture Extract
Alteromonas Ferment Extract
Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33
Maltodextrin
Lecithin
Isomalt
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polysorbate 60
Phenylpropanol
Phenethyl Alcohol
Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C10-18 Triglycerides, Smithsonite Extract, Glycerin, C12-16 Alcohols, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Tapioca Starch, Secale Cereale Seed Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Helichrysum Stoechas Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Plantago Lanceolata Seed Extract, Lycium Barbarum Callus Culture Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33, Maltodextrin, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Isomalt, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol, Phenethyl Alcohol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!