Biologique Recherche Crème Masque Vernix Revitalizing, Regenerating and Protective Cream/Mask for the Face Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Iso-Placenta Regenerating Face Cream

Biologique Recherche Crème Masque Vernix Revitalizing, Regenerating and Protective Cream/Mask for the Face Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Iso-Placenta Regenerating Face Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Lecithin and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to refine skin texture and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Amniotic Fluid

Lecithin

Lanolin Oil

Propylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Glycerin

Alcohol Denat.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Squalane

Raspberry Seed Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters

Hydrolyzed Placental Protein

Hydrolyzed Gelatin

Yeast Extract

Hydrolyzed Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Luffa Cylindrica Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol

Embryo Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Ceramide NP

Cholesterol

Potassium Sulfate

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Papain

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Caprylyl Glycol

Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33

Ceramide EOP

Water, Amniotic Fluid, Lecithin, Lanolin Oil, Propylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Squalane, Raspberry Seed Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Hydrolyzed Placental Protein, Hydrolyzed Gelatin, Yeast Extract, Hydrolyzed Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Luffa Cylindrica Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Embryo Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Potassium Sulfate, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Papain, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33, Ceramide EOP

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Sucrose Polystearate

C10-18 Triglycerides

Cetyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Polyamide-5

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Hexapeptide-11

Oligopeptide-1

Oligopeptide-2

Oligopeptide-3

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Acetyl Glutamine

Folic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Butylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

T-Butyl Alcohol

Water, Propylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Sucrose Polystearate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Cetyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Polyamide-5, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Yeast Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Hexapeptide-11, Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-2, Oligopeptide-3, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Acetyl Glutamine, Folic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, T-Butyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Yeast extract is a silky, clear liquid derived from yeast (usually Saccharomyces cerevisiae or Torula yeast).

This ingredient has plenty of skin benefits:

Bioferments of yeast and soy have been found to reduce hyperpigmentation at low levels.

Yeast extract is fungal acne safe because it's made up of amino acids, peptides, B vitamins, and nucleotides (not the C11-C24 fatty acids that Malassezia needs to thrive).

The "yeast" in the name can be misleading, but FA safety is about chemical composition and not ingredient origin.

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