Biologique Recherche Crème Hydravit’s Moisturizing Face Cream Versus SkinCeuticals Daily Moisture

Biologique Recherche Crème Hydravit’s Moisturizing Face Cream Versus SkinCeuticals Daily Moisture

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Tocopherol and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Cetyl Alcohol

Sucrose Polystearate

Jojoba Esters

Niacinamide

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Yeast Extract

Rhizobian Gum

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glyceryl Caprate

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Tocopherol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polyglycerin-3

Phenethyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Sorbic Acid

Water, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Sucrose Polystearate, Jojoba Esters, Niacinamide, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Yeast Extract, Rhizobian Gum, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Caprate, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyglycerin-3, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Sorbic Acid

Cetyl Palmitate

Stearic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Palmitic Acid

Dimethicone

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Glyceryl Stearate

Sorbitol

CI 77163

PEG-100 Stearate

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

PEG-75 Stearate

Carbomer

Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate

Allantoin

Panthenol

Ceteth-20

Triethanolamine

Caprylyl Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Steareth-20

Disodium EDTA

Myristic Acid

Betaine

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Glucose

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Sanguisorba Officinalis Root Extract

Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract

Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract

Retinyl Palmitate

Sodium Benzoate

Zinc Sulfate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Urtica Dioica Extract

Betula Alba Leaf Extract

Citric Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Cinnamal

Pyridoxine Hcl

Water, Glycerin, Cetyl Palmitate, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Tocopherol, Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitol, CI 77163, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, PEG-75 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Allantoin, Panthenol, Ceteth-20, Triethanolamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Propylene Glycol, Steareth-20, Disodium EDTA, Myristic Acid, Betaine, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Glucose, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Sanguisorba Officinalis Root Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Zinc Sulfate, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Urtica Dioica Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Betula Alba Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Cinnamal, Pyridoxine Hcl

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

This botanical extract is also known as horsetail extract. It mainly acts as an emollient, skin soother, and astringent.

A study from 2023 found compounds in Equisetum Arvense showed significant anti-inflammatory effects in irritated keratinocytes (the main cell in your outermost layer of skin).

Another study using a cream with horsetail and soybean extract found 80% of participants showed at least a 26% improvement in forehead wrinkles after 8 weeks.

Animal research has shown topical Equisetum Arvense stimulated skin and tissue growth in mice.

The research so far is encouraging, but still in its early days. But it's a lovely supporting ingredient and can be a welcome addition to any routine.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract is a type of kelp. It helps sooth and hydrate the skin. By nourishing the skin's barrier, it may also help relieve irritation.

This ingredient contains both lipids and antioxidants. The lipids nourish the skin's barrier. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

This ingredient is good for soothing sensitive skin.

Many different types of algae have different benefits.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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