Bielenda Skin Clinic Professional Ceramides Rebuilding And Nourishing Serum Versus Bielenda Skin Clinic Professional Signal Peptides Stimulating And Rejuvenating Serum

Bielenda Skin Clinic Professional Ceramides Rebuilding And Nourishing Serum Versus Bielenda Skin Clinic Professional Signal Peptides Stimulating And Rejuvenating Serum

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Beta-Glucan and Gluconolactone to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Shea Butter Ethyl Esters

Cocoglycerides

C14-22 Alcohols

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Glyceryl Stearate

Beta-Glucan

Gluconolactone

Ceramide NP

Beta-Sitosterol

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Ceramide EOP

Arginine PCA

Dimethicone

Glycine Soja Oil

Squalene

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Xanthan Gum

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Taurine

Disodium EDTA

Cellulose Gum

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Tocopherol

Carbomer

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Benzoate

Parfum

Limonene

Linalool

Hexyl Cinnamal

CI 19140

CI 17200

Water, Glycerin, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Cocoglycerides, C14-22 Alcohols, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Beta-Glucan, Gluconolactone, Ceramide NP, Beta-Sitosterol, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Ceramide EOP, Arginine PCA, Dimethicone, Glycine Soja Oil, Squalene, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Xanthan Gum, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Taurine, Disodium EDTA, Cellulose Gum, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, CI 19140, CI 17200

Propanediol

Trehalose

Glyceryl Glucoside

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Sodium Hyaluronate

Cyanocobalamin

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Polysorbate 20

Succinoglycan

Pentylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Trehalose, Glyceryl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cyanocobalamin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Polysorbate 20, Succinoglycan, Disodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Linalool, Limonene

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.

This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.

As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.

The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.

This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.

It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.

Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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