Barulab 530 S-Peptide Ampoule Versus Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop

Barulab 530 S-Peptide Ampoule Versus Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop

This calming ampoule is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to calm redness and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Propolis Extract 85.3%

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

1,2-Hexanediol

Water

Betaine

Sodium Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

Borago Officinalis Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Allantoin

Panthenol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Salvia Sclarea Extract

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Tocopherol

Honey Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Beta-Glucan

Centella Asiatica Extract

Lecithin

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Polysorbate 20

Aphanothece Sacrum Polysaccharide

Copper Ascorbyl Phosphate Succinoyl Tripeptide-34

Oligopeptide-1

Oligopeptide-3

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Oligopeptide-6

Parfum

Propolis Extract 85.3%, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Water, Betaine, Sodium Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Allantoin, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Tocopherol, Honey Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Beta-Glucan, Centella Asiatica Extract, Lecithin, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Polysorbate 20, Aphanothece Sacrum Polysaccharide, Copper Ascorbyl Phosphate Succinoyl Tripeptide-34, Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-6, Parfum

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Caprylyl Glycol

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Chlorphenesin

Guaiazulene

Water, Butylene Glycol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Lecithin, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycerin, Chlorphenesin, Guaiazulene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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