Augustinus Bader The Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Lotion P50T

Augustinus Bader The Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Lotion P50T

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Pentylene Glycol

Propylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Glycerin

Sorbitol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Xanthan Gum

Butylene Glycol

Panthenol

Sodium Carbomer

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Alcohol

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Squalane

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Hydroxide

Carbomer

Lecithin

Cholesterol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ceramide NP

Glycine Soja Protein

Superoxide Dismutase

Citric Acid

Dextran

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Alanyl Glutamine

Arginine

Ceramide Ng

Glycine

Lysine

Oleic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Phenylalanine

Proline

Scenedesmus Rubescens Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Retinyl Palmitate

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Dextran Sulfate

Betula Alba Oil

Disodium EDTA

Oligopeptide-177

Sodium Ascorbate

Tocopherol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Sodium Carbomer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Squalane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Carbomer, Lecithin, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ceramide NP, Glycine Soja Protein, Superoxide Dismutase, Citric Acid, Dextran, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Alanyl Glutamine, Arginine, Ceramide Ng, Glycine, Lysine, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Phenylalanine, Proline, Scenedesmus Rubescens Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Betula Alba Oil, Disodium EDTA, Oligopeptide-177, Sodium Ascorbate, Tocopherol

Sodium Gluconate

Niacinamide

Lactic Acid

Magnesium Chloride

Cochlearia Armoracia Root Extract

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract

Vinegar

Serine

Urea

Allantoin

Sodium Lactate

Sodium Salicylate

Tea-Lactate

Sodium Bisulfite

Water, Glycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Magnesium Chloride, Cochlearia Armoracia Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Vinegar, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Citric Acid, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Salicylate, Sodium Benzoate, Tea-Lactate, Sorbitol, Sodium Bisulfite

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a hydrating and moisturizing agent created from the reduction process of glucose.

Most sorbitol is usually made from potato starch. It is also found in fruits such as apples and pears.

As a humectant, Sorbitol helps draw water to the skin. This helps keep the skin hydrated. Sorbitol also helps create a thicker texture in products. You might find sorbitol in your toothpaste and other gels.

It is a non-irritating ingredient that is great for those with dry skin.

Sorbitol is a prebiotic. It helps promote the growth of healthy bacteria on your skin. The bacteria on your skin form a microbiome. This microbiome helps protect your skin from infection and harmful bacteria.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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