Anua Heartleaf 70% Daily Relief Lotion Versus Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream Moisturizer

Anua Heartleaf 70% Daily Relief Lotion Versus Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream Moisturizer

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Houttuynia Cordata Extract to calm redness.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Glyceryl Stearate

Arginine

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Glucose

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Tocopherol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Trehalose

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Beta-Glucan

Betaine

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Glyceryl Glucoside

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Squalane

Fructooligosaccharides

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Centella Asiatica Extract

Methylpropanediol

Fraxinus Rhynchophylla Extract

Ceramide NP

Cetearyl Glucoside

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Disodium EDTA

Methyl Trimethicone

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dipropylene Glycol

Water, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Arginine, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Glucose, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Trehalose, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Beta-Glucan, Betaine, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Squalane, Fructooligosaccharides, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Centella Asiatica Extract, Methylpropanediol, Fraxinus Rhynchophylla Extract, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Glucoside, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Disodium EDTA, Methyl Trimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol

Propanediol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Alanine

Lysine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Threonine

Valine

Isoleucine

Histidine

Ascorbic Acid

Saccharide Isomerate

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Hexapeptide-11

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment

Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment

Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sucrose Stearate

Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Xanthan Gum

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Sodium Citrate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Lactobacillus Ferment

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Hydroxyacetophenone

CI 77491

Water, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Ascorbic Acid, Saccharide Isomerate, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Ceramide NP, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Hexapeptide-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sucrose Stearate, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Citrate, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, CI 77491

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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