Educational guide
AHC Beauty Aqualuronic Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum
AHC Beauty Aqualuronic Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair s
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AHC Beauty Aqualuronic Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum
This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Codium Tomentosum Extract
Enteromorpha Compressa Extract
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Carbomer
Tromethamine
Xanthan Gum
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Ethylhexylglycerin
Maris Aqua
Parfum
Adenosine
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Disodium EDTA
Trehalose
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Propanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Zinc PCA
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract
Ceramide NP
Cholesterol
Ceramide As
Ceramide Ns
Ascorbic Acid
Citric Acid
Ceramide AP
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Phytosphingosine
Madecassic Acid
Magnesium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Copper Tripeptide-1
Serine
Sucrose
Urea
Glycine
Calcium Chloride
Potassium Hydroxide
Ornithine
Maris Sal
Alanine
Magnesium Chloride
Threonine
Histidine
Aspartic Acid
Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Codium Tomentosum Extract, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maris Aqua, Parfum, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Disodium EDTA, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Zinc PCA, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Ceramide As, Ceramide Ns, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Ceramide AP, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Madecassic Acid, Magnesium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Serine, Sucrose, Urea, Glycine, Calcium Chloride, Potassium Hydroxide, Ornithine, Maris Sal, Alanine, Magnesium Chloride, Threonine, Histidine, Aspartic Acid
Water
Bifida Ferment Lysate
PEG-8
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Methyl Gluceth-20
Glycereth-26
PEG-75
Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Tripeptide-32
Faex Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Cola Acuminata Seed Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Hydrolyzed Algin
Pantethine
Caffeine
Lecithin
Sodium Rna
Bisabolol
Squalane
Oleth-3 Phosphate
Caprylyl Glycol
Oleth-3
Oleth-5
Choleth-24
Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters
Ceteth-24
Tocopheryl Acetate
Triethanolamine
Tetrasodium EDTA
BHT
Potassium Sorbate
Phenoxyethanol
CI 14700
CI 19140
Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, PEG-8, Propanediol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, PEG-75, Butylene Glycol, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Tripeptide-32, Sodium Hyaluronate, Faex Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Squalane, Glycerin, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tetrasodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.