Acnemy Zitcalm Anti-Redness Calming Moisturizer Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Iso-Placenta Regenerating Face Cream

Acnemy Zitcalm Anti-Redness Calming Moisturizer Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Iso-Placenta Regenerating Face Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Bisabolol and Allantoin to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to refine skin texture and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Ethyl Macadamiate

Glycerin

C10-18 Triglycerides

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Glycereth-26

Copernicia Cerifera Wax Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Rice Bran Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Sclerotium Gum

Isosorbide Dicaprylate

Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Squalene

Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Citric Acid

Beta-Sitosterol

Phosphoric Acid

Malic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Glycerin, C10-18 Triglycerides, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Glycereth-26, Copernicia Cerifera Wax Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rice Bran Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Sclerotium Gum, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Squalene, Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Beta-Sitosterol, Phosphoric Acid, Malic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Propylene Glycol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Sucrose Polystearate

Cetyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Polyamide-5

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Yeast Extract

Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Hexapeptide-11

Oligopeptide-1

Oligopeptide-2

Oligopeptide-3

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Acetyl Glutamine

Folic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Butylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

T-Butyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

Water, Propylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Sucrose Polystearate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Cetyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Polyamide-5, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Yeast Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Hexapeptide-11, Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-2, Oligopeptide-3, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Acetyl Glutamine, Folic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, T-Butyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

C10-18 Triglycerides is a skin conditioning and texture-enhancer.

It is created from glycerin and a mixture of C10-18 fatty acids.

This ingredient improves spreadability and helps thicken a product.

According to manufacturers, it usually comes from vegetable-based saturated fatty acids. Common bases for this ingredient are coconut oil, palm kernel oil, or both.

Due to the melting point being close to skin temperature, it is usually used in lip products.

Triglycerides are a main component of fat in the human body.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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